Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby



Other Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Names: Blueband Sleeper Goby, Pennant Glider, Pretty Prawn, Orangespotted Sleeper Goby, Golden Head Sleeper, Bluestreak, Sleeper Gold Head Goby

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Scientific Name: Valenciennea strigata

Alternate Scientific Name:

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby (Valenciennea strigata)
Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Ease of Care: 7/10
7/10
Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Reef Safety: Reef Safe
Reef Safe
Temperature Range: 72°F-82°F
72°-82°
pH Range: 8.1-8.4
8.1-8.4
Salinity Range: 1.02-1.026
1.02-1.026
Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Adult Size: 7 inches (cm)

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Temperament: Territorial with other gobies.

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Diet & Nutrition: The Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby feeds off the bottom as it sifts through the sand eating mouthfuls of substrate and the food that lives within the sand. The Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby feeds on a variety of live and frozen brine shrimp, mysid shrimp, live black worms, and prepared foods for carnivores, and should be fed frequently.

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Description: They are a major sand sifter, picking up large mouthfuls of sand and expelling it through the gill covers, sifting out anything edible. They also take a wide variety of frozen or flake food. Small sinking enriched shrimp meal pellets are an excellent way of keeping them well fed. Some seem to waste away no matter how well fed, which could be a sign of intestinal worms. These fishes are burrow dwellers, and will normally seek protection under low overhanging rocks or actually burrow underneath rock to form a secure home. They should be housed in aquariums with a sandbed of at least two inches in depth and not housed with aggressive fishes such as groupers, dottybacks, triggerfishes or aggressive angelfishes. Usually, they starve to death in closed systems unless there are few competitors for their food supply, or they may simply jump out of the aquarium. Even though they mate for life in the wild, pairs can form in the closed system. Should be maintained in pairs if at all possible. May eat small fishes, such as Neon Gobies.

Tank Mate Compatibility: Does not do well with aggressive fishes

Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Breeding & Spawning: The female generally lays about 2000 eggs on the roof of their chamber. She will tend the eggs for three weeks, during which time she will not leave the chamber. Just before hatching occurs the male will seal the entrance to the chamber, sealing in the female. After the eggs have hatched the male will reopen the chamber, at night, freeing the 2-millimeter fry (Debelius 1986). We have not read any reports of successful rearing of the fry, but it seems that it may be possible given enough time and patience. Sleeper gobies, hover gobies and signal gobies can help the aquarist to maintain a clean and healthy substrate. However, you may still have to perform the odd stir-and-siphon routine if problems develop. Although most of these fish are active sifters, they cannot do so with a substrate that is too large, such as dolomite or crushed coral. In fact, these fish may injure themselves trying to handle substrate that is too large or coarse, and bacterial infections may result. The best substrates to use, such as coral sand or finely crushed coral, have grain diameters less than 2 millimeters in diameter. As mentioned above, in order to aid in burrow construction, some larger sized pieces should be mixed in with the finer to provide "building-blocks" for the fish. Now that you know about the species of gobies described here, and the benefits they can provide to your reef tank, what are you waiting for? It's time for goby shopping.

Determining Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby Sex: Male sleeper gobies are easily identified by their elongated second dorsal spine.

Aquarium Region: Tends to stay near the bottom of the tank where the substrate is. This species digs burrows to hide in.