Skimmer

 

How does a skimmer work? As air is injected into the skimmers water column, very small bubbles are created. These bubbles have a thin film around them that attracts minute particles and organics as they rise toward the skimmers water surface. At the surface, they accumulate creating foam. This foam rises just above the waters surface and overflows into the skimmers cup, removing organics and other materials from the aquarium before they have a chance to breakdown and become toxic substances (i.e. ammonia/nitrite/nitrate). This action simulates the action of waves crashing against the beach which create a foam in the same manner. Heavy skimming is a cornerstone to good reef keeping and is definitely STRONGLY recommended for every new system.

 

 

 

 

There are many different types of skimmers available, the cheapest and least productive being counter-current air driven skimmers. If you decide to invest in a skimmer (which you very well should if you expect any long-term success with a new system), get a decent venturi skimmer or better yet, a downdraft skimmer (for larger systems). Newer models that rival even the downdraft skimmer are now becoming available, though command a high price.)

 

 

 

Ozonizer & UV Sterilizers

 

 

These units effectively kill pathogens which are water-borne but have no effect on parasitic pathogens already attached to their hosts (your organisms).  Another downside to these units is that they will destroy beneficial microbes as well.  The bottom line as far as I'm concerned: Use of these units are totally unnecessary in a properly set-up and maintained system.

 

 

 

 

 

Calcium Reactor

Probably the ideal method for maintaining calcium and other elements in the system though can have an initial expensive setup cost. This cost will quickly be off set in the materials and chemicals you will not have to purchase to maintain proper levels of calcium.  Other methods of maintaining proper calcium levels include dosing Kalkwasser - a powdered calcium product that is mixed with fresh water and slowly dripped into the system, or by using 2-part additives (C-Balance/B-ionic).  I utilize B-ionic because kalkwasser additions can cause aragonite sand bed clumping if improperly dosed.  I will purchase a calcium reactor in the near future.

 

Chiller

 

 

 

Chillers may not be the end-all answer to maintaining a cooler system, though they can play an important role.  A good chiller will lower the system's temperature several degrees, though this is another high-expense item.  The decision is ultimately yours on wether or not to purchase a chiller. Do I recommend it? In most cases I would say no.  A good air-conditioner can keep both you and your system cool, so why waist the money on a chiller?  There are instances when a chiller might be a better idea however.

 

 

 

Metal Halide Lighting

 

 

 

The double-edged sword of reef aquarium lighting.  On the positive side, Metal Halide lamps provide the closest spectrum and intensity as compared to the sun.  Under the right conditions, photosynthetic organisms can thrive under these lamps.

 

Unfortunately, there is a downside.  These bubs carry a lot of heat and with increased wattages, comes the increase in temperature.  This can be controlled to a limited extent using fans to cool the aquarium hood (preferably one blowing in, one blowing out) or by utilizing a chiller.

 

Another possible problem is the effect these bulbs may have on your organisms if they are placed to close to these bulbs.  However, careful placement and gradually acclimating new pieces by slowing moving them up from a shaded spot is the answer.

 

These bulbs are commonly sold in 175-watt, 250-watt and 400-watt bulbs.  Talk to other aquarists or your local aquarium society about what will work best for you and your system, as well as where you should locate your lamps as to how far from the water's surface. 

 

I have seen many aquarists with severely under-lit systems but as of late, the trend seems to be on the other end.  Too much light is just as harmful to our organisms as not enough.

 

Metal halide bulbs are sold in a wide variety of spectrum ranging from 4000K to 20,000K.  The minimum for reef aquariums should be 5000K.  Ideally, I would recommend 10,000K or better. On my largest system (a 100 gallon) I am running two 175-watt - 20,000K bulbs with very nice results.

 

 

 

NO/HO/VHO & PC Fluorescent Lighting

 

 

Fluorescent lighting is commonly available in normal-output (NO), high-output (HO), very-high-output (VHO) as well as power compact fluorescents (PC) which is really just a compact (HO) or (VHO) bulb.

 

Each type of bulb has a different wattage-range which ranges from 40-watts in (NO) bulbs, 60-watts in (HO) bulbs and 110-160-watts in (VHO) bulbs.

 

Aquarium supply stores commonly sell many different types of bulbs.  Some are very heavy on the blue-end of the spectrum (actinic and moon-type bulbs) and some are a combination of blue and white.  While these bulbs provide stunning visual effects, understand that the absolute best quality fluorescent bulb available as far as benefits to our organisms go are full spectrum bulbs.  These bulbs provide the closest range of light similar to actual daylight.  they are sold at your local fish-store, lighting shops and even Home Depot!

 

Be aware of other types of bulbs labeled "broad-spectrum", "wide-spectrum" or any other bulbs not labeled "full spectrum".  They will not provide the correct spectrum that we, as reef aquarist are looking for.

 

Many aquarists run a single blue (actinic or similar) bulb with two or three full-spectrum bulbs.  While this is fine, you must remember that these bulbs are more beneficial for aesthetics and less to the benefits of our photosynthetic organisms.

 

A Final Note on Lighting

A good rule of thumb when deciding how much light for a reef aquarium is needed is 6-10 watts per gallon depending on what organisms we are attempting to keep.  This is why the use of normal output fluorescent lighting is of little use as far as reef aquariums are of concern (except maybe in lighting extremely shallow systems or supplemental lighting/refugium). Some aquarists have reported success with (NO) fluorescent bulbs, but for the benefit of our marine organisms, we should leave (NO) fluorescent bulbs to the non-reefer in most cases.

 

Also worth mentioning is how light effects shallower aquariums. A 50-gallon shallow system would require much less intensity than a deep 45-gallon hex aquarium.  The only truly accurate method to measure how much light one would require would be to utilize a luxometer to help determine how much light intensity our system is receiving at different levels and areas throughout the system.

 

Heater

Several small heaters may be better than one large heater.  This will help in the even that one of your heaters fails "on" allowing you time to catch it before the system temperature gets too dangerously high.  A few years back, I lost an entire freshwater Discus setup (very expensive fish) due to a very expensive (but single) heater failing on.  In tropical areas, a heater may not be necessary, but before making this decision, ensure that you will be able to maintain a stable and proper temperature without one.  Chose a heater that is designed for saltwater use, preferably one that is fully submersible.

 

 

 

Plenum

A plenum is an open space of water located under a deep layer of sand at the bottom of the tank.  This open space remains primarily anoxic which allows high levels of bacteria that are hypoxic (lives in a low oxygen environment) to thrive.

 

This low oxygen area conflicts with the high oxygen area of the main water column above the sand bed which results in an extremely slow movement of water through the sand bed itself.  This slow water movement keeps the lower areas of the sand bed anoxic, therefore the beneficial hypoxic bacteria thrive.

 

Studies have shown that a depth of 4 inches to be ideal when utilizing a plenum.  A shallower sand bed would be far less efficient.  Any depth exceeding 4 inches would impact the system negatively, changing the sand beds redox which would result in nitrogen storage (not good). So, the bottom line is: when going with a plenum, ensure that you have a 4-inch sand bed depth.

 

Is a plenum required? Of course not. Just one of your many options as you set up your system. I personally utilize a plenum in my main system but not in my smaller systems due to the appearance of the deep sand bed in such smaller systems.

 

Sump

                The use of a sump is not required, though very useful in placing equipment like skimmers, filters, refugiums, heaters, and other equipment that would normally either hang on the back of the main system, or within the system itself.  Additionally, a sump increases overall water capacity which is always a plus, and helps to skim surface water of "sheen" which will inevitably accumulate without an over-flow or other related device.

 

                To utilize a sump, your system will have to be fitted with an overflow feature which is oftentimes already supplied on new tanks.  If this isn't the case for your system, you can have one professionally installed though this may not be possible with a tempered-glass aquarium. (they will shatter if improperly drilled).  If having your system drilled, ensure that the overflow is large enough to accommodate the water exiting the system on its way to the sump, as well as taking into consideration the possibility of a partial blockage (ensure overflow is large enough to overcome this)

 

 

 

 

 

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