Even new equipment can be faulty at times. This is why it is important to thoroughly test equipment prior to putting it into service. A good way to do this is by filling the tank with fresh water and allowing equipment to run for a few hours without live rock or other life-containing ingredients, while periodically viewing for leaks or defects in workmanship. This will also give your equipment a good cleaning before its first use.
After all equipment has been inspected, drain system and refill with saltwater. Make sure you utilize RO/DI water for makeup to avoid any additions of unwanted elements and chemicals. If you are using dry sand and/or dry rock, you can safely add them to the system prior to adding the water, otherwise wait until water has reached a safe and stable temperature, pH, and Salinity.
Dry rockwork should be at least partially constructed outside of the system for best results. A good way of doing this is to cut out a piece of cardboard the size of you tank-bottom so you can have a better idea of what you are constructing. Keep in mind that your rock structure will still have to squeeze by any lip or other obstructions you may have at the top of the tank itself. Ensure that rockwork provides plenty of hiding spaces, ledges for corals, space for good water movement between the rocks and is stable.
Some aquascape ideas: (bird's eye view)

So looking at these structures, what can be said about all of them? Answer: They all provide room for water movement all around the structures. Piling rockwork up against back glass is always a bad idea. Additionally, each of these structures should have many caves, gaps and openings as well as ledges to place new livestock. Another aspect these structures all share is that they provide room in the sand for additional sand-dwelling livestock. This is also very important because it allows a better surface water-flow exchange across the sand bed.
Now lets look at each of these individually:
STANDARD: This is probably the most common structure of the four. It is best suited for smaller systems that cannot allow for a more elaborate aquascape. It also is idea for center viewing.
FRINGING: This structure common starts high and tapers down to the substrate. It can provide a stunning effect when done correctly. This setup also provides a large area for sand dwelling specimen. Can be a very natural looking structure.
DUAL STRUCTURE: My personal favorite. This area provides sand-dwellers the center spotlight. Also idea for systems with glass panes down the center which may lower light levels in that area. I commonly connect these two structures with a high-level bridge for a very nice effect. A good idea with this type of setup is placing one structure more towards the front of the system, and the other, more towards the back. This will give the illusion of great depth as well as give each structure a more distinguished appearance.
LAGOON: You might see this structure in several tanks of a public aquarium. It is best suited for very large tanks (100 gallons or more). Remember to leave room for good water circulation both in front and behind this structure!
Some good ideas for securing your rockwork are:
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Plastic Cable-ties
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Aquatic Bonding Putty
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Galvanized Steel Wire
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Super Glue Gel
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Plastic rods drilled and placed through center of rockwork
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PVC frame the rock is built around
SETTING IT ALL UP - TO BE CONTINUED!!!!
 
 
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